A Chance to See Beyond Oneself

The Story

Hungary
Leaving my recent friends behind in Cluj, Romania, I embarked on my bus journey to the Romanian city of Budapest. Despite the annoying couple sitting next to me who couldn't keep their lips apart, the journey was smooth and painless. Upon arriving in my hostel in Budapest, a group of individuals, myself included, joined together to create an innovative and powerful site seeing collective. Similar to my last group of comrades in Cluj, we all got along great despite our age differences and national diversity. This group would be comprised of a Swedish couple in their 20s, a late 30s New Yorker who filmed fashion shows, a 40 something English bloke who was an outdoor adventure guide, and yours truly ( i.e. me). We all had an interesting conversation with the hostel manager about American government and corporate imperialism in the world as well as the many problems of the EU and eastern Europe - quite a stimulating conversation. Our group united the first night and enjoyed an evening of exploring the bar scene in the jewish quater and trying the locals brews. After some intense rounds at Foosball at one of the bars we visited, we decided it was time to hit the hay.

The next day I decided to go exploring by myself. The European architecture (for I have no other words to call it) was a joy to encounter; Budapest was probably the first major city I had been to on this trip that really stirred those feelings of fantasy we all have of European. One of my favorite sites of the day was St. Stephan's Basilica - the interior was massive, lined with gold on all curves and corners - it spoke beauty. Another important site was the largest Jewish synagogue in all of Europe. It was interesting to learn about Jewish sabbath customs as well as the history of how the Jews in Budapest were oppressed during WWII from the holocaust museum.

I spent a significant amount of time visiting the castle and museums on the prominent hill of the Buda side (the city is divided into two sides by the Danube: Buda and Pest). One quite humorous site was the underground labyrinths. At first one descends into the caves expecting to simply see some underground tunnels and historical monuments from when it was used during world war II. But after some time I came to realize they have transformed this historical location into an opportunity for dry humor - something I am always fond of. In the beginning of the tunnels they have some neolithic cave paintings with some cave man drums sounds in the background. First impressions: a little odd but maybe they are doing it for the kids. Then I come across some quite odd shaped statues and cave formations, placed as if they are supposed to be native to the ground. Later I pass by a fountain that is flowing with wine. The highlight though was their satire on western consumerism. They create fossil-like imprints throughout a series of tunnels that are difficult to decipher at first but one soon realizes are imprints of tennis shoes, laptops, cell phones, coca cola bottles, microwaves, and other house hold items. They create a whole story line of how these imprints were from a past civilization giving each item unique terminology that mocks modern consumerist tendencies. (This probably wasn't worth elaborating on but it really made my day). In the evening the crew went out to see a jazz/dixie band play at a bar called Fat Moes.

The next day I found that the English couple I traveled with in Romania came to stay at the same hostel I was at. What a joy it was to spend some time with them again. During the day the posse of travelers visited the old communist statue park, which was pretty run down by still gave us a good smile enjoying the cubist style of sculpting of those great heroes that ruined their countries infrastructure and economy. We hiked up another large hill near the city center and explored some streets before all going our own ways. That evening the english couple randomly met the two Canadian girls I had met several times before and we all went out for dinner and drinks together. The next day I took a day trip to Szentendre, just about an hour north of Budapest along the Danube river. I spent a considerable amount of time sitting and enjoying the nature of the outdoors surrounding the town as well as browsing several art galleries that the town is known for. It was a very relaxing day that was definitely needed.

Slovakia
The next day I took a train to Bratislava, Slovakia. I only spent one day seeing the sites of the city because I was running short on time for Europe. The city didn't really stand out compared to the many other sites I have seen. Some nice churches, beautiful buildings, large castle on a hill, slower pace of city life than other cities, and so on and so forth. It was a stopping point on my way to Austria. I wish to one day return to Slovakia to see the eastern portion of the country; the mountains are supposed to be spectacular.

Austria
From Bratislava to Vienna and oh what excitement. I am half austrian and from the beginning of this trip I have developed this internal gravitation towards anything Austrian. Upon arriving I was supposed to stay with a rather enlightened individual, Patryk, who I once met in Santa Barbara and became immediate friends with (his grandmother is the famous Austrian artist Valie Export). He ended up getting sick from some food he had eaten so I stayed with a couchsurfer I had previously contacted. Before meeting up with Lara, my couchsurfing host, I wandered around the city visiting many churches and beautiful parks. From the moment I arrived I fell in love with Vienna, I could certainly see myself moving there one day. The city has a very modern feel but the archictecture is absolutely stunning. Lara and I spent a lot of time visiting museums and city sites, enjoying cafes and traditional Austrian food. Every corner you turn there is another amazing building to see, after a while it just becomes normal to be surrounded by so much beauty. The names of the many churches and buildings start to lose value as there are so many and it is more the image, history, and feelings of the location that changes a person, not necessarily the name. While walking through the city one day I again unexpectedly met the two canandian girls who I have now seen in about 5 countries. We spent a little time seeing the sites together before they left to go back to Hungary. That evening Patryk joined Lara and I for dinner and we had some stimulating conversations about universal energy, alchemy, astrology, and art.

As Lara had some time off from school, we decided to travel together to Salzburg and Innsbruck. I suppose it was be deceptive to the reader to not clarify that the relationship between Lara and I soon developed into that of a more romantic nature. We had so many things in common and such similar personalities, it made for quite an enjoyable opportunity on both of our parts. I suppose I should also clarify, seeing that I have not mentioned before, that this was not the first experience on this trip where a relationship with a woman has developed into a more intimate manner. I am not very fond of expounding on such details as I see them as more of a private matter but since my whole experience of Austria is linked to my time spent with Lara, I see it as worthy to share with the few readers out there. After a few days together in Vienna, we took an afternoon train north east to the picturesque town of Salzburg.

The ride to Salzburg was comprised of fantastic views of many mountains covered with green grass and large pine trees often complimented with a rock peak sprinkled with snow. I was smiling the whole way. The old town was streaming with baroque architecture and historical buildings. The city is the home of Mozart and the setting for every one's favorite film: the sound of music. Everything about our time in Salzburg was perfect except for the fact our hostel was filled with a large french school group of loud highly energetic pain in the ass teenagers. After two days of seeing Austria's past in this historic town we took a train out to the countryside to visit with a couple that are good friends of my father. They own a restaurant looking over a peaceful valley filled with green pastures and touched with a variety of colorful flowers. Lara and I took a walk through through a forest and peaceful meddow before they treated us to a fantastic lunch of white asparagus soup, a well cooked steak for me, vegetable dumplings for Lara, a pancake crepe ice cream creation for dessert (don't know the name), and some good schnapps to top of it off. They were fairly busy with other customers so we didnt get too much time to talk but it was fun to hear about their lives and friendship with my parents.

From Salzburg we traveled onward to Innsbruck, a smaller city nestled at the base of several towering mountains. The city is famous for holding the winter olympics in the1960s and 70s. Again we were confronted by a city with so much history and the remaining architecture and historical monuments. The many bright colors of the Tyrolian art and architecture style gives the city goer a full spectrum of positive feelings. What can I say, I love Austria. Lara and I had to sadly seperate as I went on to Venice (where I am currently traveling) and she back to school in Vienna (but we may be meeting again in a month or two).

The Reflection

I feel the traveling starting to wear on me. The past 7 months have been amazing but I feel my curiosity starting to fade. With so much history constantly begging to be known and so many splendors of man-made creation and natural beauty to be explored, I feel I cannot hold it all in. I am sad to be losing the enthusiasm I had earlier in my trip but I think I am finding my limits. It was great to travel with Lara, as it completely changed the environment to have another person to share and reflect with. But alone, the environment sometimes loses value just because I have been overwhelmed with so many sights and sounds and people. I will most likely continue onward from Italy to France, Switzerland, and Germany and from Berlin fly to Iceland, New York and back to California in mid-July. I would not have expected to start losing interest at this time in my trip but it is a reality I am confronted with. At the same time I feel so incredibly humbled at this opportunity and so grateful for every moment I have on this trip. It is a unique fusion of feelings. But I shall do my best to find the muse who will speak words of inspiration that will lead me onwards to grow and be transformed by these many foreign environments. There is always hope. I will learn about myself through this process and will become a traveler anew.

With each step we are guided, all we must do is stop and listen in order to know.

Karl
Venice, Italy